Tuesday, 28 February 2012
Friday, 24 February 2012
The basics: how do to an oil change
One of the most basic items on the maintenance checklist is changing your car’s oil. Once you’ve done it once or twice, it’s easy and quick and not necessarily messy. I remember the first time I did it myself, and I wondered why anyone would endure that terrible ordeal rather than shelling out $50 to have someone else do it. Happily, poverty forced me to try it again, and I’ve learned a few tricks along the way that make oil changes a snap.
You don’t need your own garage to do your own oil changes. Sure, it’s nice, but plenty of people use their driveways, condo parking spaces, or even on their street parking. Pick a nice, warm day and get outside. Just be considerate and don’t leave a mess!
I change my oil every 5000km which is on the conservative side of oil change intervals. Most cars will specify an interval in the owners manual (usually 5000-10000km), but modern cars have fancy oil analyzers built into the computer that monitor the oil life and will tell you when it needs changing.
Here are the tools and supplies I use for oil changes.
You don’t need your own garage to do your own oil changes. Sure, it’s nice, but plenty of people use their driveways, condo parking spaces, or even on their street parking. Pick a nice, warm day and get outside. Just be considerate and don’t leave a mess!
I change my oil every 5000km which is on the conservative side of oil change intervals. Most cars will specify an interval in the owners manual (usually 5000-10000km), but modern cars have fancy oil analyzers built into the computer that monitor the oil life and will tell you when it needs changing.
Here are the tools and supplies I use for oil changes.
Monday, 20 February 2012
Re-mounting the electronic boost controller
Once upon a time, the location of the three switches operating my auxiliary lights used to be home to my HKS electronic boost controller. When I needed a place for the switches, it was the obvious choice, which meant the boost controller needed a new home.
Here it is, back in the day:
It was mounted simply, with double-sided tape, stuck directly to the switch blanks. I looked all around the cockpit for another place to stick it, but no flat surfaces were available. I’d have to build a bracket.
Here it is, back in the day:
It was mounted simply, with double-sided tape, stuck directly to the switch blanks. I looked all around the cockpit for another place to stick it, but no flat surfaces were available. I’d have to build a bracket.
Thursday, 16 February 2012
Making an on/off switch for ABS brakes
From my increasing experience with competition driving, I have learned that ABS braking is often not your friend, especially on loose surfaces. A sensitive touch has the capacity to outbrake the computer-controlled ABS system, particularly when we’re talking about the crude Subaru ABS computer.
Friday, 10 February 2012
Wednesday, 8 February 2012
Wiring the Subaru aux lights, part 8: final connections
Are you excited? I’m excited. All this work and still no light. Perhaps we can fix that.
I needed to first add the connection points for the spot lights and magnetic spot light to the fuse and relay box. The spot lights, with their combined 22 amps of current, would use one of these big Anderson connectors, while the magnetic spotlight and its measly 7 amps would use a miniature version of it.
I needed to first add the connection points for the spot lights and magnetic spot light to the fuse and relay box. The spot lights, with their combined 22 amps of current, would use one of these big Anderson connectors, while the magnetic spotlight and its measly 7 amps would use a miniature version of it.
Monday, 6 February 2012
Wiring the Subaru aux lights, part 7: preparing the lights
Building the light bar was only part of getting the lights mounted. In this chapter I’ll actually get to adding wire and protecting them from rocks.
In the wiring diagram post, I mentioned that I would be making the lights a switched negative system (with a constant positive) as long as the lights weren’t grounded through their attachment points. A quick check with the multimeter showed continuity between the mounting bolt and the negative wire on the middle spot light, but not the two outside lights. This could be easily fixed by disassembling the light.
In the wiring diagram post, I mentioned that I would be making the lights a switched negative system (with a constant positive) as long as the lights weren’t grounded through their attachment points. A quick check with the multimeter showed continuity between the mounting bolt and the negative wire on the middle spot light, but not the two outside lights. This could be easily fixed by disassembling the light.
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